tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38612543431584157432023-11-16T19:45:50.439+01:00 Hola MatrimonyPreviously a newlywed living la buena vida in southern Spain with my Navy husband. Now, a thirty-something married to a civilian (same guy!) on a new adventure in Yokosuka, Japan. Follow along as I make the transition from que tal to konnichiwa! Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-31411466696819995842015-04-21T14:32:00.000+02:002015-04-21T14:34:06.408+02:00Expat in Japan Observations, Second Edition <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Getting closer to hitting the 3 month mark in Japan and figured it was time for another collection of my random expat ramblings. Similar to my <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.jp/2015/03/11-early-observations.html" target="_blank">11 Early Observations</a>, ranging from the minor details to larger themes of adjusting to life in the land of the rising sun, except this time it's a list of 10. </div>
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<b>Fake food is a real thing.</b> You know how there are collective concepts of what is typical in certain places - cowboys in Texas or bullfights in Spain or rude people in Paris - but you aren't quite sure what is actually prevalent and what's just been blown out of proportion? That's how I felt about fake food. Everyone has heard of the use of plastic food in Japan to advertise a restaurant's offerings, but before getting here, I really wondered whether this was actually a thing, as we're led to believe. It is. Or at least much more so than rude people in Paris. </div>
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<b>Japanese way vs. the American non-way.</b> In Japan it seems there is a right way, and therefore a wrong way, to do just about everything, from eating to parking to riding on the train. If you are unsure about proper procedure (you can be sure there is one) the general rule of thumb is to watch what everyone else around you is doing and then do the same exact thing. Just recently we went to the grocery store for a couple of things, literally two, and Graham asked me why I grabbed a basket. And I was like, look around you...everyone has a basket, so we have a basket! As an American, I certainly regard etiquette as a positive thing, but normally reserved for particularly formal scenarios - dinner parties, weddings, funerals, etc. Everyday American life tends to be more relaxed, with less protocol. Here I fluctuate from feeling like a bumbling, unrefined idiot to an American flag-waving rebel cowboy. Yeehaaw, I just jaywalked! Oh no, everyone is staring...</div>
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<b>Like white on rice.</b> My white rice consumption must be up 1000% since moving to Japan. Sushi is a usual suspect, bentos are almost always accompanied by a portion of white rice, and it's a necessary component of curries and rice bowls. But my current preferred preparation is the humble inarizushi. Nothing more than a fried tofu pocket, filled with sushi rice, served cold, and available for cheap at any grocery or convenience store. Slightly sweet, there's just something about them. I have to restrain myself from buying them in packs larger than 3, because I will eat them all.</div>
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<b>Fancy foreign words.</b> I don't have to look any farther for a bungled Japanese to English translation than the trash sorting guide that is posted in our kitchen. (Although I would love to know what a tree brunch is, sounds like a good time.) But what I find vastly more amusing than the inevitable Japanglish that results from Google Translate, is the intentional use of foreign words in an incorrect or just absolutely inapplicable way. Of course, the desire to look sophisticated by using foreign words, especially French ones, happens everywhere, but the result here tends to be particularly silly. Perhaps you would like to drive an Athlete or a L'Epice (Spice)? Or my personal favorite, this Cheese bicycle? </div>
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Ooh la la. </div>
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<b>Safety.</b> After living in Spain, I was already accustomed to life in a country where violent crime is exceedingly rare, guns are heavily restricted, and life is generally free of concerns about personal safety. Unfortunately, due to the severity of La Crisis (the recession) and the high level of unemployment, petty theft has become more common and break-ins (though usually crimes of opportunity when the tenants are away) an issue. Japan is even safer. Women walk alone even at night, personal possessions are left unsecured, children use public transportation unaccompanied. People try earnestly to return lost items, from cheap gloves to iPhones, to their rightful owners. For nearly two weeks, a reusable grocery bag with a note pinned to it patiently waited on a bench in our neighborhood to be claimed.</div>
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<b>Masks.</b> A few weeks ago, I sent my mom this picture of cherry blossoms and her reply was simply "Really pretty!" Then she asked if the people in the picture were wearing masks. Yes, they were, and it had already become a common sight to me. I think many Americans assume wearing masks is something that occurs only when there is a major epidemic, but instead it seems to be a rather ordinary practice. And it's not to protect the wearer, but others around them from possible exposure to their germs.</div>
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<b>Pickled.</b> I love pickles and they are everywhere in Japan. They are a typical and inexpensive appetizer in many restaurants, with each having a different mix and preparation. Not just pickled cucumbers, but a wide variety of vegetables - carrots, onions, mushrooms, lotus root, peppers, bamboo shoots. This was a display at a farmers' market in Tokyo. Gorgeous. I couldn't resist taking home a jar of pickled Japanese ginger (myoga).</div>
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<b>Tsunami precautions.</b> These signs are found all around our coastal town of Zushi, pointing inland, and directing people to designated safe gathering places in the event of a tsunami. (Don't worry Mom, our house is very close to one, in this direction, and we know exactly where it is!) Elevation markers are also posted, so that you can be aware how far above sea level you currently are.</div>
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<b>Sleven.</b> As someone who grew up in the mid-Atlantic region, with access to the world's greatest chain of gas station convenience stores known to man (Wawa, obviously) it's hard for anything else to compete. But Japanese 7-11s do a good job. They provide a variety of services, but to be honest, I love them for their easy to use ATMs, cold beverages, and selection of tasty, fresh grab-and-go food. They'll even ask if you want meals from the cold case heated up. Graham likes the tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) but personally I'm a sucker for the cold soba, especially after a particularly festive evening. Unfortunately, no Slurpees.</div>
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Sleven soba, with all the fixings - spring onions, wasabi, dipping sauce, seaweed, even a packet of water to "loosen" the noodles. </div>
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<b>Karaoke convert.</b> Let me be clear, I have a terrible voice. I don't like being on stage. I have no diva fantasies. In short, I loathe American karaoke. No amount of booze makes me want to get on stage at some random bar filled with strangers, in between choreographed acts from self-styled Carrie Underwoods and Taylor Swifts. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it. But sign me up for Japanese karaoke any night of the week. First of all, you rent your own room, often soundproof, with just your friends. The price can include unlimited beverages, which you order via phone or touch screen and are delivered right to your booth. There are several microphones, often tambourines, sometimes even a stage with lights. What follows is essentially a giant, ridiculous sing-along.</div>
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Trust me, it is so, so fun. Even when I'm torturing T Swift's greatest hits. </div>
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I feel like at this point I could go on and on about all of the things that are making an impression on me, honestly there are so many that I keep an ongoing list. I'm trying to remember whether I had this overwhelming feeling of cultural and everyday differences when I first got to Spain. I think Japan just feels so very unique and is in such contrast to what I'm used to, whether American or Spanish. Adapting to life here is an interesting and challenging experience. </div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-48355146132242280732015-04-10T08:18:00.000+02:002015-04-10T08:18:27.597+02:00Sakura at Shomyoji Temple<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The cherry blossoms (sakura) in Japan are renowned for their stunning beauty, but they also have a deeper meaning for the Japanese. The short-lived blooms are a metaphor for the fleeting nature of life, the transient nature of existence. They are also a symbol for spring and new beginnings.</div>
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Sakura season, though a brief couple of weeks, is highly anticipated - everything becomes about these tiny pink and white flowers. Looking at them, taking pictures of them, sakura flavored food and drink, special limited edition sakura packaging. People plan everything from a short stroll to hours long, food filled and alcohol drenched picnics, called hanami, under the flowering branches. </div>
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The middle of last week was the height of the sakura blossoming in our area, but unfortunately neither the weather nor Graham's job allowed for any boozy daytime picnics. Refusing to let that stop us, we planned a post-work trip to Shomyoji Temple. We knew we would be racing sunset, but luckily it is just as beautiful after dark as during the day.</div>
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To be honest, I wish the sky had not been overcast when we got there, but beggars can't be choosers when it comes to the weather here and I was just glad it wasn't raining. We both enjoyed strolling around the pond, over the red bridge, stopping to spot herons, ducks, kingfishers, turtles, and koi. Later, the glow of the lanterns made up for the lack of sunshine.</div>
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Even though sakura season is quickly coming to a close, I definitely have plans to visit Shomyoji Temple and it's gorgeous park again. </div>
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For those in the area, it's easy to find. Take the Keikyu Line to the Kanazawa-Bunko stop. Take the East exit and from there follow the green pavement. It's about a 10-15 minute walk. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-6352174333279623992015-03-24T15:08:00.000+01:002015-03-24T15:08:07.931+01:0011 Early Observations <div style="text-align: center;">
I have been in Japan almost 2 months! Although really, I feel like I've only actually been living in Japan for one of those two, since the first month was spent living in a hotel on base. I mean, it's located directly next to a Chili's, so it hardly seems fair to count that time as part of the Japanese experience. </div>
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Portrait of a girl who is really effing over living in a hotel room. </div>
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Life in Japan still seems really new and despite having a house, I'm not feeling settled. Our household goods aren't due to arrive until almost June which is definitely a contributing factor. And certainly language and cultural barriers abound. Sometimes I feel like I just arrived. Other times, I feel like I should have gotten more done in two months, seen more, traveled farther. But then I remember that in the span of a month we contracted cell phones, got driver's licenses, bought a car, and rented a house. Throw in the stress of having the pups in quarantine during that time and frankly, it all left me a bit stressed and exhausted.<br />
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So no, I haven't been to Tokyo yet. Or planned any big trips. I didn't see the Great Buddha in Kamakura (which is shamefully just one train stop away) until last weekend. I kept telling myself if it had survived since 1252, it would still be there, and it was. Right now, almost every day brings some sort of unique experience even if it's not an exciting adventure. </div>
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Japan is brand new to me. I had never been in the country until the day we stepped off the plane in late January, and had spent very little time in Asia (less than a week in Dubai). So, I might not have any dazzling trip photographs at this point, but I do have the collected experiences and observations of the completely inexperienced. </div>
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<b>I became illiterate.</b> Yes, all it took was a trans-Pacific flight and I lost my ability to read. On top of that, I was also practically deaf and mute. There is really nothing more challenging than not being able to understand or interact with the environment around you. It was immediately obvious that we were going to need to make a concerted effort to learn some Japanese.</div>
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<b>Learning Japanese.</b> Or trying. We are so lucky (and surprised) that Graham was offered free Japanese lessons through his job. Even better (and more surprising), I received permission to take the classes, too. Twice a week we meet with a private tutor...and proceed to butcher this language. Our sensei is a saint. We're at that beginner stage where some words are just fun to say, despite their meaning. I still love saying the word "salchicha" (sausage), a favorite from my freshman year Spanish class. Right now, the phrase "denwa bangou" is for some reason endlessly amusing. Picture me randomly saying "phone number" as I'm walking around.<br />
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<b>The toilets.</b> Yes, they have a ton of buttons that correspond to myriad functions (noise, air freshener, water jets!?) most of which I am too intimidated to try. But the best feature is the warm seats. They are pure genius. Now a cold toilet seat just seems backwards and uncivilized. America, how have you not gotten on board with this? </div>
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Russian roulette of toilets.</div>
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<b>Cleanliness, sort of.</b> We asked plenty of Americans who had lived here previously about their experiences in Japan before we made the final decision to move. Many said they loved it and when asked why, the most common answers were cleanliness and the efficiency of the trains. Not things that are crazy exciting to me, but they were just so adamant about how clean and efficient Japan was that I was intrigued to see for myself - everyone made it sound mind-blowing. It turns out that yes, Japan seems pretty clean. I've seen some dirty cities and nothing here falls remotely into that category. When compared to somewhere like Marrakech, it's pristine. But yes, litter still exists here and there's the occasional piece of gum stuck to the sidewalk. There are rundown buildings that have seen far better days and I've gotten used to spotting plastic trash floating in the waterways. I think this is mostly a case of expectations versus reality - it's a clean place where people seem to be generally respectful of public and shared property, but it's not sparkling.<br />
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Clean? Yes. Would I eat off the ground? No.</div>
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<b>The weather.</b> Winter has been rainy, cool, overcast, windy, and generally pretty dismal, which has been a tough transition after sunny Spain. We joke that we moved to the Pacific Very Northwest. Luckily for my sanity (and Graham's, because I can be a bit dramatic about not seeing the sun for days) it seems to be improving.<br />
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Crazy wind, equally crazy hair, even crazier little dog. </div>
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The positive side of all that rain is really gorgeous spring flowers. </div>
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<b>A genkan is a mini-mudroom.</b> Our house (and every house we've been in) has an entrance area just inside the main doorway called a genkan. It's specifically for removing your shoes before entering the house. They are typically tiled and have a closet or cupboard for storing shoes, which is also great for keeping umbrellas, dog leashes, scarves, etc. We have slippers that we wear in the house and even when our housing agent or repair people have come over, they go around in socks. The genkan is a good way to keep dirt out of the house (especially considering the mud from all of the rain) and I'm all for slippers, but with the dogs the jig is up. Also, I now have to remember to wear good socks when socializing. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Trash stress.</b> Every piece of trash has to be sorted - glass, cans, burnable waste, different types of plastic, different types of paper, cardboard, large items, electronics. The list goes on and on. Every time I throw something away, I have to think about which category it falls under. Items that are multiple categories give me anxiety. </span>As part of our move in, we were given a 6 page explanation of how to handle our trash. (And one day, I'll have to sort that 6 pages and the staple into their appropriate piles.) <span class="Apple-style-span">Trash goes out every day of the week, but only a certain category of trash each day. We have an assigned trash collection point that is monitored by someone in the neighborhood. If you get it wrong, your trash won't be picked up and will be waiting for you at the end of the day with a note attached to it. It hasn't happened to us yet, but the fear of public trash shaming is real. And good luck finding a trash can in public - that trash has to come home with you to be sorted. </span></div>
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<b>Stores are open all weekend.</b> This is obviously a reflection of having moved from southern Spain, but it's weird/awesome to be able to run errands on a Sunday. It's also common for almost everyone to work regular hours on Saturday. </div>
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<b>Country mouse, city mouse.</b> I was underwhelmed, or maybe just whelmed, by the legendary cleanliness of Japan, but my expectations were met when it came to public transportation. I love the ease of using the trains. And since we are essentially in the suburbs of Tokyo, there is so much to see and do, and people are constantly on the go. That definitely means that the pace here is more frenetic than sleepy southern Spain, which is exciting. But I realized the other day that I haven't seen a horse, a cow, a goat, a chicken, a sheep, let alone a flock of sheep and their shepherd, or any other barnyard animals in months.<br />
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<b>Culture lag.</b> Yes, the jet lag was rough. A 14 hour time difference (from the East Coast, or 17 hours from our departure point in Seattle) is no joke. It took a while to shake the getting up in the middle of the night, being hungry for dinner in the afternoon, and falling asleep when the sun went down. On top of that, we also moved from a late-night culture to an early rising one. It's been difficult to settle into a new routine that doesn't involve eating dinner at 9 or 10 and staying up well past midnight. The sun rises and sets early here and so do the people. We're learning to adjust after 3 years of late Andalucían nights, but it would be a lot easier with a siesta. </div>
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<b>Bows instead of besitos.</b> Although greetings like handshakes or simple introductions are common, bowing still occurs often as a way of saying hello, goodbye, or showing gratitude. Kisses on the cheek are definitely off limits in a society where touching strangers is considered uncomfortable. I do miss the warmth and enthusiasm of giving besos to friends, new or old.<br />
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So, there you go - 11 random thoughts about my time so far in Japan. I realize that they are not all glowing and positive. I would be lying my face off if I didn't say that living here is challenging. I knew culture shock would be tough as an American, but I think it's hitting twice as hard for an American who lived in Spain for over 3 years and loved the culture. If there was a spectrum of culture and the US was the center, Spain would be a little to one side and Japan would be far over to the opposite side. </div>
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The Great Buddha in Kamakura. Some parts of Japan definitely live up to the hype. </div>
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Luckily, despite the cultural differences, there are some truly beautiful and interesting parts of Japan. I look forward to exploring them more. And hopefully that will mean more posts filled with pretty pictures, travel, food, etc. but I'll also try to keep the honest observations coming, too. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-74764978715662502152015-02-17T09:11:00.000+01:002015-02-17T09:11:41.460+01:00How to survive a cross-country roadtrip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Really, I have no idea. I think it was mostly luck combined with a little bit of planning. The idea to drive from Maryland to Seattle was born primarily out of necessity - we needed to get 2 humans, 2 dogs, and 300 pounds of luggage from point A to point B and for some crazy reason, this seemed like the best plan. Part of it was wanting to avoid a monstrous day of flying for the dogs and the other was the allure of seeing some new parts of the US, after galavanting around Europe for more than 3 years. I mean, it's a bit shameful as an American when Spaniards have seen more of your country. </div>
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Let's be clear, this was no wind in the hair, convertible cruise filled with quirky roadside attractions and back road shenanigans. We needed to travel over 4000 miles in less than a week and there was no room for error, or else we would miss our flight to Japan. No pressure. </div>
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Our route:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVJUMFvycHcB-RKVlE8E_Y7lavBA7ffS8boD0ScYhkG4g97BNTCilO80ReTOe4SWnJe9-sXZA8mLr4XtYcO-OMlkjR1O-oyCAnTTfNAuDwVNiA3NKX1gGOXUARNvHtraKG3_usimbj3Q/s1600/Screen+shot+2015-02-17+at+3.44.02+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVJUMFvycHcB-RKVlE8E_Y7lavBA7ffS8boD0ScYhkG4g97BNTCilO80ReTOe4SWnJe9-sXZA8mLr4XtYcO-OMlkjR1O-oyCAnTTfNAuDwVNiA3NKX1gGOXUARNvHtraKG3_usimbj3Q/s1600/Screen+shot+2015-02-17+at+3.44.02+AM.png" height="297" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was dictated by a few factors. The typical northern route was out since it was January and we worried about winter weather slowing us down. (Irony alert: There was a giant snow storm in Oklahoma that almost forced us to bypass it by driving north.) The southernmost route, along I-10, wasn't appealing either, because we had done long sections of that in the past and I absolutely refused to drive the entire width of Texas, which is a brutal 12 hour haul. We also needed to see Graham's family in the Outer Banks of North Carolina before heading west. Final piece of the puzzle - my one request was to see the Grand Canyon. I mean, what's a cross-country drive without it?<br />
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Grand Canyon kisses.</div>
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But how did Graham and I survive (we even still like each other!) all the boring 10-hour plus driving days that made this trip possible? I'm not quite sure, but here's what helped:</div>
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<b>No cheeseburgers.</b> More specifically, no drivethroughs. We managed a dozen on-the-road meals without hitting up a McD's or BK once. Lunch wasn't anything fancy (we had everything from Mexican to barbecue to the roadtrip classic, Cracker Barrel) but we got out of the car, walked the dogs, and didn't rush. And we made sure we were off the road by 9 so that we could have a decent dinner (including a well-deserved beverage) and avoid raiding the hotel vending machine. We even splurged in Nashville at <a href="http://merchantsrestaurant.com/" target="_blank">Merchants</a> and in Seattle at <a href="http://www.cedarbrooklodge.com/eat.php?gclid=CjwKEAiAx4anBRDz6JLYjMDxoQYSJAA4loRmM0o3iWJV3fesfgS9xh3hOVACvdDtSQV784P1u932ihoCPTPw_wcB" target="_blank">Copperleaf</a>. The <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/apps" target="_blank">Tripadvisor app's</a> Near Me Now function made finding interesting, non-burger food easy. </div>
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Southern mojitos at Merchants.</div>
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Mac and cheese and mind games at the ever so fancy Cracker Barrel.</div>
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<b>Pony up the additional driver fee.</b> Normally we try to make renting a car as cheap as possible, but since we were already shelling out the extra cash for an SUV (like I said, no romantic drop top trip here) that would accommodate our ridiculous amount of luggage and a dog kennel, we gladly paid the fee for me to be included on the rental agreement. Most of our European roadtrips were manageable with a single driver (and a kickass copilot, if I do say so myself) but this was definitely a dual-driver scenario. </div>
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<b>Schedule some highlights.</b> Unfortunately, our timeline didn't allow for many forays off the beaten track, but we did have a couple of things that were priorities. For me, the Grand Canyon was a must, and it really was worth the additional planning and driving time lost. Just as fantastic - having lunch in California with a dear friend that we hadn't seen since we moved to Spain. The last time we were all together, she was a bridesmaid in our wedding! It was so wonderful hanging out with her and her two sweet sons - one was an infant when we last saw him and the other we met for the first time!<br />
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<b>Enjoy the scenery.</b> It's been said many times before, but the US is huge. And there is so much I hadn't (and still haven't) seen. We drove through mountains, forests, desert, orchards, farmland, over the Mississippi, through national parks, past mesas. There were some incredible, albeit semi-blinding, sunsets that we drove into on the western horizon. Sometimes there was just a large expanse of open landscape as far as the eye could see that continued for hours, and there was nothing better to do than simply take in the enormity of it all as we rolled by. </div>
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<b>Recognize the importance of good audio.</b> After our first day in the car, we wanted to kill the radio. It was then that I remembered the podcast <a href="http://serialpodcast.org/" target="_blank">Serial</a> being recommended by a friend. It might have saved our lives. It definitely saved our sanity. (Have you listened to Serial? So good.) I had never been into podcasts before, but now I'm a total convert. Having something that is mentally engaging is so key to not going insane while driving long distances. Graham and I would listen intently, often hitting pause to discuss what we thought at certain points and make projections about what would happen next. Next time (?!?!?!?) I would even give audio books a shot. Anything besides listening to the same songs and news reels (Deflategate was the top story during our trip. Ugh, the inanity of the commentary was brutal.) on a constant loop.<br />
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To be honest, despite some challenges, we both really loved this drive and would seriously consider doing a cross-country trip again. It makes me feel incredibly American to admit this...but I love a roadtrip! Give me the freedom to choose my own route, interesting food to eat, and a few sights to see along the way over the stress and mundanity of air travel any day. During our week's worth of manifest destiny, I was able to see six new states (Tennessee, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona, Oregon, and Washington) and so much more of my country than I would have if we had just flown over.<br />
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New-to-me New Mexico. </div>
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Who knew Oregon is so green and gorgeous? Now I do.</div>
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The classic American cross-country road trip - is it for you? Have any other roadtrip advice? Or better yet, any other suggestions for podcasts that can replace Serial? </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-20012279587503781892015-02-03T15:06:00.000+01:002015-02-03T15:06:29.831+01:00Leaving Spain<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I want to talk a little bit about my emotions upon leaving Spain. I know that I left nearly a month ago and that I'm already in Japan, but right now my life here is just a jumble of jet lag, hotel living, and general confusion (if you want photographic evidence of that, check out my instagram <a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg" target="_blank">@meghannbg</a>). But my feelings about Spain are very fresh. When I think of my very recent home, there's a pain there that varies between dull ache and intense longing. I find myself reciting overused platitudes. It's better to have loved and lost. All good things must come to an end.<br />
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First day in Spain! The love affair begins!</div>
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Here's something that you rarely hear about moving abroad - becoming an expat means risking having your heart broken in two, permanently. You might worry that you will dislike your new home or question your decision to leave your own country or be intimidated by being surrounded by another culture, but what you forget to take into account is the danger that you might fall truly, madly, deeply in love with a place...and then have to leave it. I knew I would like Spain and probably even love it before I moved, but I never knew how much it would become a part of my life, shape my early marriage, become a facet of my identity, nor how hard it would be to move away.</div>
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Last day in Spain. Champagning away the blues. </div>
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The morning our household goods were scheduled to be packed, the first thing I said to Graham was "Call the movers, tell them not to come. Let's just stay." And I meant every word. El Puerto had become familiar and beloved, and my house there had become my home. (Sidenote: Having a beautiful house in southern Spain does nothing to encourage wanderlust. ) </div>
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Of course, there's always the hope of returning, but it won't be the same. Like the quote about the river that you can never step into twice, I can never be the same person I was when I stepped into Spain at 29 years old, just shy of 2 weeks married, full of ridiculous optimism. And Spain will never be the same either. El Puerto, "my" town, will change and hopefully grow. Many of the people who became part of my extended community will move on, as military and government employees must. So, no matter what the future may hold for Spain and I, I feel the need to mourn my time there, but also a need to be thankful for the opportunities and experiences I was lucky enough to have. Because I was so, so lucky.<br />
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I will admit that leaving in general is getting more difficult. It was especially tough to say goodbye to family and friends in the States before moving to Japan. But that's to be expected, isn't it? What was surprising was that it was just as hard to leave a place that wasn't my home country.<br />
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That being said, I wouldn't change my time in Spain for anything in the whole wide world. If you have the opportunity to have your heart broken in two (or three or four) by another country, I highly recommend it. It's my favorite kind of heartbreak. And you will never be the same, in the best of ways. </div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-48509681136487128532015-01-15T15:29:00.003+01:002015-01-15T15:29:56.110+01:00Anchors Aweigh<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ten and a half years ago at McGarvey's in Annapolis, I met a Naval Academy midshipman who was 3 days away from being commissioned as an officer in the Navy. At the time, I had no idea that was the beginning of a relationship that would ultimately lead to becoming one of the things that I swore I would never be - a military spouse. Last night, in the same place, I had beers with my husband as we celebrated his first day out of the active duty Navy. </div>
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It's hard to put into perspective the last decade of my life and our lives together. Needless to say, it was not always easy, and being a Navy girlfriend and later, wife, were not roles that necessarily came naturally to me. There were some difficult times, but also amazing experiences and opportunities that I wouldn't trade for anything. After all, it was the Navy that brought us to Spain, a place I had dreamed of living long before Graham and I met. We have traveled extensively, made so many friends who are now scattered across the globe, been a part of a unique community. And the Navy set us on our current path to Japan.</div>
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If Graham had to name a highlight of his time in the Navy, he would say the weeks he spent supporting humanitarian aid in Haiti following the devastating earthquake in 2010. I'm sure getting his wings of gold is up there, too.</div>
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For me, it would be homecoming after his first (and only!) deployment. There really is nothing quite like that feeling of having your loved one home after months of absence and running into their arms. A close second would be the repeal of Don't Ask, Don't Tell, which was such an important step for equality in one of the world's most diverse work forces, and allows everyone to have those beautiful homecoming moments. </div>
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Choosing to be in the military (which is not for everyone, and certainly not for me) is ultimately about service, commitment, and dedication. I'm proud of Graham for being able to decide at age 17 to sacrifice personal freedom for those higher ideals that he so strongly believes in. And I'm proud of myself for having had the strength to play a supportive role for the last decade. Together we hope to cultivate a life dedicated to causes we believe in, to be parts of a more important whole. </div>
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Of course, the Navy will still play a large role in our lives, as Graham will be working for a US naval base and will continue to serve in the Reserves, but the rigors and realities of active duty are behind us. </div>
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It's incredible to me that this chapter has come to a close. At times it seemed like it would never end, but at this moment it feels like just yesterday that I was a silly 21-year old meeting a boy in a bar. </div>
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*All images courtesy of the incredibly talented Kristi Bundy of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kristen-Lynn-Photography/1481580625417257" target="_blank">Kristen Lynn Photography</a> in El Puerto de Santa María, Spain. </div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-23833387948904943802014-12-02T17:48:00.000+01:002014-12-02T17:48:05.729+01:00We're moving to...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Did you ever play that game as a kid where you spun a globe around and stopped it with your finger to see where you were going to live or go on vacation? I know I'm a map nerd, but this can't just be me. It was fun to imagine ending up in those far-away places, while singing a little chorus of "round and round it goes, where it stops nobody knows!" as the globe turned.<br />
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(Completely unrelated, but I traded my last office an old microwave for this globe, straight up. I'd say I got the better deal.)<br />
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When Graham and I discussed his transition to civilian life, we both agreed that our top priority would be to stay overseas, ideally in Europe. But applying for jobs is a bit like a grown-up version of spinning the globe and as various positions became available, we decided to get adventurous and widen our scope.</div>
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Which is how our metaphorical fingers came to land on our next home...</div>
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JAPAN! </div>
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Our next adventure will be in a part of the world that is completely new to both of us. I'm intrigued and admittedly, a bit overwhelmed - the language, the culture, the driving on the left! But we've heard a lot of great things about Japan (tell me more! get specific!) and there's so much to be excited about, especially the food and travel opportunities! </div>
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How did this happen? Graham applied for and was offered a very good job working as a federal government employee in Yokosuka, about an hour and a half south of Tokyo. So good in fact, that it was nearly impossible to pass up. He'll be at a Navy base, doing similar work, but as a civilian and at a higher level - essentially a promotion! Big congrats to my husband! </div>
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And now for the bittersweet part...leaving my beloved Spain, which we will be doing in exactly one month. On January 2nd, we will travel back to the States, where we'll spend a few weeks belatedly celebrating the holidays with family and getting a good dose of America before it's on to Japan. </div>
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I hope to spend the next month soaking it all in, while trying not to go insane with the fast pace of the holiday season and the stress of coordinating an overseas-to-overseas move. Visiting all my favorite spots, eating all the best Spanish food, taking last-minute day trips, the list is long and time is short.</div>
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So, there you go. Our big news for 2015. Trading Atlantic for Pacific, Europe for Asia, military for civilian, west for east, the familiar and loved for the unexplored and unknown. </div>
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Feel free to follow along as we say "adiós" to España and "konnichiwa" to Japan. And keep me posted on your big adventures in the new year! </div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-30733476463318268652014-11-06T16:32:00.000+01:002015-04-02T03:57:25.514+02:00Carvoeiro, Portugal <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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How do you go about deciding where to pick up with blogging again when you have a backlog of over a year of travel? You could create a detailed posting schedule or...you could just open up your photos folder and see what pops out at you. Let's go with that. </div>
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And that haphazard approach is appropriate here, because this long-weekend trip to Portugal came about in the same under-planned way.</div>
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Labor Day for Graham was a four-day weekend (a "96" in milspeak) and as it was approaching, we casually decided we would go somewhere in the Algarve, the southern region of Portugal, along the coast. It's only a few hours by car, <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/weekend-getaway-in-portugal.html" target="_blank">we'd been before</a>, it's generally affordable, the beaches are pretty, the food is a nice change from Spanish cuisine, and we could take the dogs with us. We let that non-specific decision hang until two days before the weekend started when we realized that we'd probably need, you know, a place to stay. Cue furious searching on booking.com.</div>
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I set my sights on popular Lagos and came up short. Expanding the search to surrounding towns, a room in I-have-never-heard-of-this-place-before Carvoeiro popped up that seemed like a steal. Click, click, booked.</div>
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Off to Carvoeiro we went! And we were happy to find that our procrastination hadn't cost us a great weekend. Our hastily booked accommodation overlooked the beach as promised and we had a giant terrace that dwarfed our somewhat tiny, but typically-sized European room. The town was charming and to top it off was celebrating their patron saint that weekend. Bustling holiday atmosphere, concerts in the town square, religious processions, quirky traditions, and fireworks commence!</div>
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We spent the majority of our time hanging out on the beach, relaxing on the terrace, walking the dogs around the little town, and seeking out delicious Portuguese food and wine - whether that was at a nice restaurant or the grocery store. </div>
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Our first afternoon we caught these "beach games". One involved retrieving a flag from the end of a beam extended from a small boat and the other was a swimming race to see who could catch a pair of ducks. The winner of the duck chase was treated like no less than a returning hero, surrounded by kids and being photographed by a crowd. Can't make this stuff up. </div>
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The long line of people is the religious procession that took place.</div>
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7€ grocery store lunch for two - olives, cheese, and fish soup. </div>
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Late night party and fireworks, which went off right over our room. We loved it, but the dogs were less than excited. </div>
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Besides general holiday lazing and leisuring and taking in Carvoeiro's celebration, we also made time to check out the end of the world. Also known as Cabo de San Vicente in Sagres, the westernmost point in Portugal. The lighthouse marks the point between the calmer waters to the south and the windswept coast to the north, which generates the waves that attract countless surfers, with the seemingly endless Atlantic stretching out to the horizon. </div>
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Even though we didn't end up staying in Lagos, we still made the quick drive over one day to check out the grottoes and coves that shape the rocky coast. Many of the formations are named after animals or rooms in a house - like the gorilla, the chimney, and the garage. </div>
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I also spent a good amount of time admiring and taking pictures of the stunning tilework and pottery. Even the smallest towns in Portugal have the most gorgeous ceramics, and I really love the use of blue and the incorporation of animals, especially birds and fish. </div>
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-If Portuguese pottery is your thing, there are plenty of shops that can be found throughout the Algarve, without even looking. I really enjoyed visiting <a href="http://www.porchespottery.com/" target="_blank">Porches Pottery</a> and watching the pieces being painted by hand. There are some really lovely items (including the plates pictured above), but keep in mind - they are priced appropriately for handmade, handpainted work that is done on-site. If you can overlook a few flaws, they have an interesting section of seconds that offers deep discounts. Porches Pottery also completes custom orders, in case you have something really special or personalized in mind. </div>
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-Avoid the ubiquitous and lackluster pub food that is being served as a result of the high number of British tourists. (Seriously Brits, what is with the cheeseless burgers and sad sandwiches? I know you can do better than that!) For a tasty dinner accompanied by interesting Portuguese wines and served by knowledgeable waitstaff, head to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TerroirCarvoeiro" target="_blank">Terroir</a>. You can even pick up bottles of your favorite wines to take home while you are there. Win, win. (Sorry, no pics here because I was too distracted by food and wine, but you can check my <a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg" target="_blank">instagram</a> for a quick collage I snapped.) </div>
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-Drive to Lagos and do a tour of the coastal grottoes in a fisherman's skiff. We parked as close as we could to Praia Dona Ana, walked down to the beach, and at the bottom of the steps was a man organizing and directing which boat you would get in. Make sure you have cash (I think we paid 15€ per person, without negotiating) and your camera! You can also schedule a kayak tour with a company, which looked like a lot of fun, too. </div>
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-We stayed at the <a href="http://www.ocastelo.net/website/es/" target="_blank">O Castelo Guest House</a>, which I reserved through booking.com. Excellent location, amazing views, small but adequate double room, great terrace, pet-friendly. There is a also a shared kitchen, which was perfect for making lunches or keeping beverages cold and ready for happy hour or post-dinner drinks on our terrace. Highly recommend. </div>
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So essentially, procrastination won out and we ended up serendipitously celebrating a small Portuguese beach town's patron saint. Ever had a last minute trip work out more perfectly than your original plan? </div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-13688569499095172512014-09-24T15:26:00.000+02:002014-09-24T15:26:07.266+02:00Where the hell have you been?!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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And what the hell are you still doing in Spain?! Two questions you might be asking, if there's anyone out there to still ask questions after my heinously long hiatus. </div>
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To answer the first question, I've been a lot of places - Scotland, Cordoba, Champagne, Normandy, Amsterdam, Asturias, Turkey, Portugal, and most recently the States. I actually had to scroll through my instagram to remember all of those, which I realize makes me sound like a complete privileged snob/asshole. But seriously, it's been a whirlwind spring and summer of travel, as we've tried to pack in as much as we can. And in my defense, I'm still slightly jet lagged. </div>
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The second question is a little more complicated. Graham's 3-year orders to Spain were up in May, but we're still here. And that's because...HUGE NEWS...CAPS WORTHY NEWS...</div>
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Graham is leaving the Navy! </div>
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Or "transitioning" in military speak. Either way you say it, Graham will become a civilian no later than February 1, 2015. Which also means we must leave Spain by February 1, 2015. And really, it will be sooner than that, because we need to account for packing, moving, etc. What's the opposite of an exclamation point?</div>
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Since the Navy doesn't want to pay for an extra move just for 6-7 months, he won't be getting any new orders and will finish his remaining time here in Spain (bonus/silver lining/saving my sanity). So, we're trying to make the most of it (hence all the ridiculous traveling) while trying to figure out what exactly happens next. It's a bit of a weird and stressful and exciting time. Lots of changes ahead...military to civilian...Spain to who-knows-where. </div>
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Currently, we have an interesting option (I know, so vague) but nothing is definite yet. I will keep you posted as soon as something is official, promise. In the meantime, I hope to catch up on other posts that have piled up and document our last few months in amazing, beloved Spain. It's hard to even type that.</div>
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Right now, I'm trying to focus on enjoying our remaining time here while looking forward to the next big adventure, whatever and wherever that may be...</div>
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***All images by the very talented Carolyn Andros of <a href="http://www.androsphotography.com/" target="_blank">Andros Photography</a>, who I somehow snagged for a last-minute session in June. I had wanted these pics as a memento of our life in Spain and she was able to make them happen in a very narrow window of time. Muchisimas gracias, Carolyn. Unfortunately, Carolyn is no longer located in Spain, but hopefully she'll be continuing her awesome work in the DC area.***</div>
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-84730232654258292632014-05-21T19:21:00.000+02:002014-05-22T12:58:53.699+02:00Cheeeeeese! Feria del Queso in Trujillo <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I broke <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/04/are-you-ready-for-feria.html">one of my own rules</a> and planned a vacation during the Rota feria. But! I have two very good excuses. One, the feria dates have been thrown off this year by the lateness of Easter - Sevilla's Feria de Abril was at the beginning of May and Rota's was before Sevilla's, not to mention El Puerto's is sadly over the American Memorial Day long weekend, and I'll be traveling for most of that, as well. Both trips were planned well before the feria dates were released. </div>
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Two, and possibly a far better reason, I missed the traditional Rota Feria de la Primavera for a feria dedicated to one of my very deepest loves - cheese! And this trip was a long time in the making. </div>
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Flashback to two very jetlagged newlyweds, their small dog, multiple bags and a rental car full of giddy and groggy optimism as they drove from Madrid to El Puerto de Santa María nearly three years ago... </div>
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On our very first day of living together in Spain, I sat shotgun as Graham navigated the long drive from the capital to our new town in the south. To pass the time, I followed along in our recently purchased Eyewitness Travel Spain guidebook. As we passed a medieval hilltop city, I read aloud about Trujillo - birthplace to conquistadors, site of a moorish fortress, and host to an annual cheese fair. Upon reading that last bit, I immediately proclaimed that we would one day return to Trujillo. </div>
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And we did! Painfully aware that this year would probably be our last opportunity to go, we rallied some friends (some of the same people we went to <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/12/two-day-roman-holiday.html">Rome with over Thanksgiving</a>) and rented a house in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a pueblo just outside of Trujillo, for the long weekend of the Feria Nacional del Queso, the National Cheese Fair. </div>
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This proved to be a great choice. During the day, we wined and cheesed in Trujillo's iconic Plaza Mayor, under the unwavering gaze of Francisco Pizarro. </div>
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Torta del Casar is one of the stars of the festival. In order to meet the Denominación de Origen Protegida requirements, it must be made in Extremadura from a particular type of sheep's milk.</div>
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The inside is soft and perfect for spreading on bread or crackers.</div>
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We wandered the busy streets, which were flooded with other cheese-loving holiday makers, ducking into small shops or under cafe umbrellas, looking for shade and cool drinks. </div>
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We explored the hilltop fortress that had initially caught my eye from the highway, taking in the views that stretch across the vastness that is Extremadura, one of Spain's most remote regions. </div>
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The afternoons and evenings at the house in Santa Cruz de la Sierra were spent with our friends on the spacious patio, eating, drinking, and relaxing, as children and dogs ran around the property's olive trees. Our last night, we snacked on cheese bought from the festival as we waited for the grill to be ready for barbecueing. Later, after the kids were in bed and several bottles of wine were consumed, we gathered around the enormous dining room table to play Cards Against Humanity and giggle like maniacs. </div>
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<b>Here are a few thoughts and tips for the Feria Nacional del Queso in Trujillo:</b></div>
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-<b>Book early.</b> Trujillo is a small town and the feria lures many tourists. We booked several months in advance and there were few options for such a large group (8 adults, 5 kids, 3 dogs). We did enjoy staying in little Santa Cruz de la Sierra - it was rustic and peaceful. The main square, including this gentleman and his horse having a drink at the local bar, was adorable. But if you want to be in Trujillo, you'll need to book even farther in advance. </div>
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-<b>Know the ticket system.</b> Samples of cheese and wine are doled out in exchange for tickets, which can be purchased from several booths on the perimeter of the Plaza Mayor, where the festival is held. The lines for the tickets can be long, so if you're going multiple days, stock up on tickets as you are leaving after the first day and avoid the line the next morning. I'm sure it changes slightly year-to-year, but this year a book of 10 tickets for either beverages or cheese cost 5€. If you tire of nibbles and sips, use multiple tickets to buy a plate of cheese or a bottle of wine. </div>
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-<b>Beware of the sun.</b> It was only in the high 70s/low 80s (high 20s in Celsius) when we went, but due to the slight altitude and clear skies, there was a serious risk for sunburn. Avoid looking like a typical lobster red tourist by wearing sunscreen and a hat. </div>
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Graham braving the sun for a quick snap with Paco.</div>
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-<b>Bring a cooler.</b> All of that delicious cheese that you can sample is also available for sale. You better believe a selection of my favorites made it back to El Puerto with me, thanks to remembering to pack a cooler. Also, don't forget to pick up other products that the region is known for, specifically cured meats, paprika, and acorn liquor, at any of the many small shops throughout town. </div>
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Loved this one! I'm slowing chipping away at the hunk in my fridge.</div>
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For this self-professed cheese enthusiast, it was a great long weekend. I was able to sample queso from all over Spain, and even some from Portugal and Italy. Not to mention Trujillo is an interesting, history-filled little city that is surrounded by plenty of rural loveliness - olive groves, rolling hills, herds of cows. Throw in good friends and plenty of wine and it's a winning combination. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-13958801766053716762014-05-01T16:00:00.000+02:002014-05-05T14:49:18.618+02:00Processions <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
"Do you go to the processions?" asked my Spanish-American hair stylist. "Yes, of course!" I replied from my seat in front of the mirror. And then we proceeded to talk about how much we love to go out for Semana Santa - how lively the town is, how much fun it is to join the crowds, gathering to eat and drink with friends. </div>
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What I'm trying to say, without sounding completely irreverent, is that yes, I do love the processions. For different reasons than the deeply devout, but there is just such a palpable energy in the streets, bars, restaurants, and on the beaches that can be felt and enjoyed by everyone. Which is probably due to a combination of Catholic fervor and the majority of the population enjoying vacation days. In Andalucía, Semana Santa is like a sneak peek of what summer will bring interlaced with age old religious traditions. </div>
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I went to downtown El Puerto several times during Semana Santa. Here are some pictures from the Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) and Viernes Santo (Good Friday) processions. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Domingo de Ramos</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBlVp0Ae_mt3EvOoeN1PGjWfbSM5ZjEisBbxyohvpnqk6El-TYiy1HB5iu9eHZX_dxxDxGb939mBLIT0mBmXUCr9PWjIykUi9PJKewBvtWPA26xV-pL0ElAQUeLK4T0Kl1hhZK6b8E88/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzBlVp0Ae_mt3EvOoeN1PGjWfbSM5ZjEisBbxyohvpnqk6El-TYiy1HB5iu9eHZX_dxxDxGb939mBLIT0mBmXUCr9PWjIykUi9PJKewBvtWPA26xV-pL0ElAQUeLK4T0Kl1hhZK6b8E88/s1600/DSC_0721.JPG" height="424" width="640" /></a></div>
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The pasos (floats) are carried by men called costaleros. For weeks leading up to Semana Santa, you can see them practicing in the streets. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Viernes Santo </span></div>
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Children make wax balls throughout the week using wax from the processional candles. </div>
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Spanish women in the traditional black lace mantilla. </div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-10176097246043259292014-04-17T14:06:00.001+02:002014-04-17T14:06:12.250+02:00Hello, hello, hello...<div style="text-align: center;">
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I fell off the blogging horse hard. I wondered if I should even bother to get back up, but here I am. So, this is me, dusting myself off and making an attempt to write again. And maybe there are still a few of you out there reading...? </div>
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Part of what has been holding me back is that I have such a backlog of trips and experiences that I want to share and I didn't know where to begin. There's been a lot going on in the first three months of 2014.<br />
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Within the first week of the year, I made a day trip to Morocco. Nothing like a different continent to start the year off right! That was followed by a long weekend in Madrid, a roadtrip to Galicia, and just recently I returned from a last minute, 5-day getaway to France. I know, tough life.<br />
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Throw in some quick visits to the always stunning de la Fronteras (Vejer, Jerez, Arcos) and Cádiz...<br />
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along with my typical routine of yoga, sevillanas, riding, and generally trying to keep myself busy, and 2014 has been rolling by at a breakneck pace. Or maybe it just feels that way to me, since I can sense the clock ticking on my time in Spain.<br />
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Which is why I've also been trying to soak in just the average days, as the cool, damp winter disappeared into the brightness, warmth, and energy of spring. Savoring every minute of one of the best times of year in Andalucía, before the excitement and festivity of Semana Santa and feria become the long, hot, beachy days of summer, has become a priority.<br />
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Not to mention, I have a busy travel season ahead - the national cheese festival in Trujillo, the Córdoba patios festival, Scotland, Normandy, and Amsterdam are already on the books. And that's just before July! I'm also planning on Turkey and Asturias this summer.<br />
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And, it's my full intention to not only get around to some long overdue posts, but also keep up with them. Although, if I ever get behind, the easiest way to catch up with me is via instagram (<a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg">@meghannbg</a>). In fact, all of the pictures in this post are instagram snaps.<br />
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I've even given some thought to just using that as my primary platform - less writing, easy posting, instant gratification! <br />
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But ultimately, I still love the long format of a blog, both for sharing and reading, with its more detailed descriptions and high-quality photographs. So, my blog stumbles on...and I continue to juggle my Nikon and my iPhone. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-36392472944143418942014-03-07T19:42:00.000+01:002014-03-07T19:42:50.909+01:003 random things that have me excited for spring<div style="text-align: center;">
Who doesn't love warmer weather, sunshine, flowers in bloom, and more time spent outside enjoying those things? Yeah, those are all great parts of spring. But yesterday's higher temps (in the 70s - sorry to all of my friends and family freezing on the East Coast!) had me thinking about a few unique things that make me excited for Spanish spring.<br />
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1. Having hot water on demand. At our house, like many in the area, the hot water is produced by solar panels. How smart, green, and progressive! Except in the winter, when sun is harder to come by. We do have a back-up system that is electric, but it has to be turned on manually and takes an hour or two to make enough hot water for a shower. It's essential to plan for showers ahead of time and morning showers are pretty much impossible, unless one of us gets up in the middle of the night to flip the switch (never happens). All that glorious sunshine that spring brings equals hot water all the time, any time. </div>
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2. Turning off the dehumidifier. Winters here are cool and damp, the perfect recipe for mold and mildew, so it's important to make sure the inside of our casa stays dry. Regularly opening up the house helps, but we also use a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air, which is especially important in our master bathroom. It's amazing how much water it pulls from the air. Warm, dry spring means not having to constantly run or empty the dehumidifier! </div>
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3. Laundry! I know, this one seems especially strange to be excited about. Most people dream about relaxing in the sun, perhaps with a cool beverage, once the temperature begins to rise. But doing laundry throughout the winter is even more tedious than the rest of the year, since dryers here tend to be small and ineffective and line-drying takes forever, thanks to how humid it is and the increase in rainfall. A sweater can take the better part of a week to dry. Crisp, freshly line-dried laundry beats a semi-damp sweater any day!<br />
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Sunshine on my laundry makes me happy...</div>
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So, there you go, a post about Spanish spring that has absolutely nothing to do with Carnaval, tintos de verano, or even feria. All of that is fabulous, but it's interesting the everyday details that have me excited for the change in season. Maybe I'm just getting old, but being able to hop in the shower without having to consider when I turned on the water heater is pretty amazing. Appreciate the small things in life and whatnot.</div>
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It's also no coincidence that all of these things involve using less electricity. The cost of electric in Spain is very high (and increasing steadily) and being able to ditch the hot water heater, dehumidifier, and dryer is a great way to lower our monthly costs. More money for tintos de verano! Ah, that's the true meaning of the season...<br />
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What random things about spring are you looking forward to? Does anyone else living in Spain relate to this list?<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-91559174992339220562014-03-06T13:46:00.001+01:002014-03-06T13:46:17.870+01:0040 days without...<div style="text-align: center;">
After quite a hiatus, what has made me break my internet silence? Maybe a memorable trip or fantastic food or an interesting local tour? Even though I've experienced all those recently, no. I'm here to talk about what I'm giving up for Lent, because putting yourself on blast on the interwebs is a modern requirement for accountability, right?</div>
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(Important sidenote: I'm not Catholic or even particularly religious, but I do like the idea of challenging yourself. Hence, Lenten sacrifice for this self-identifying spiritual-not-religious girl.)</div>
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In past years, I've given up meat and last year <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/02/pancakes-and-giving-something-up.html">I gave up my beloved soda</a>, which were health challenges that turned into permanent lifestyle changes. 40 days (technically 46) of living without something seems to be the perfect amount of time to for me to reduce its importance and presence. Now, a soda is a rare treat and I'll only make an exception to eat meat if it's something I truly want (jamón most often falls into this category, really can you blame me?). </div>
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Realizing that this is another good opportunity for me to make a similar health change for the better, I'm giving up (most) store-bought, processed foods. This isn't a restrictive diet, but rather a requirement that if I eat something processed, it has to be homemade. If I want a cookie, I have to make it. Same goes for pasta, bread, sauces, dressings, soups, pizza, desserts, etc. </div>
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Homemade pasta - yes. </div>
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Wine - yes.</div>
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What stays? Obviously, cheese, wine, and chocolate, since there is no practical way to make those at home and they are near and dear to my heart. Another exception - going out to eat, which is an important part of my social life here in Spain. Absolutely no meat though, and no desserts that I didn't make. </div>
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Cheese - you'll have to pry it from my cold, dead fingers. </div>
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Principe cookies - no. </div>
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This isn't Whole30 or Primal or Paleo (never going to happen...see above regarding cheese, wine, and chocolate) just a conscious decision to learn how to be more proficient in the kitchen and to be mindful about what I'm eating. If anything, I guess it could be called the 40 Days of Homemade Challenge.</div>
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Cronut - sadly, no. </div>
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So how am I doing after a day and a half? Breakfast is a bit difficult, since I normally just snag a granola bar on my way out the door to the gym, but I've survived with eggs and yogurt instead. I think the biggest key will be planning and cooking ahead, when I would normally opt for something easy and pre-packaged. Which means the first homemade challenge to be tackled will be granola bars. </div>
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Yesterday's breakfast - garlic sautéed spinach with a hard-boiled egg and balsmic vinegar. Great, when I have enough time. </div>
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And yes, I'm pretty sure Graham is convinced I've gone full-hippie after buying coconut oil and a giant bag of rolled oats. What's he giving up? A classic deadly sin - sloth, meaning he plans to workout every day, no exceptions.</div>
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Wish us luck! What, if anything, are you giving up or taking on? </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-36060114334079204472014-01-08T17:40:00.001+01:002014-01-09T11:14:28.814+01:00The Perfect Roman Respite: Frascati<br />
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You might have assumed that this would be a holiday recap post, since Monday was the final day of the epically long Spanish holiday season, but no! Because Graham and I aren't even finished celebrating Christmas. Although it may seem like we're trying to out-Spanish the Spanish by waiting to open gifts until after Three Kings Day, really it's because it's taken until now for all of our packages to be delivered (with one still unaccounted for, ahh, the mysteries of the military postal system). So, our Christmas will be happening Friday night. Take that, tradition!</div>
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In the meantime, let's get back to Rome!<br />
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Our first two days in Rome were spent <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/12/two-day-roman-holiday.html">taking in the city to the fullest</a>, since it was Graham's first time there. In exchange for being an enthusiastic second-time tourist, I wanted a day to do something outside of the city and hoped it would involve sipping wine in the countryside. The rest of our group was interested too, so the day also needed to be kid-friendly, which is not something I normally have to take into account, but it turned out there was a perfect solution.</div>
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After a bit of internetting, I came across the wine tour at the Old Minardi Farmhouse, which seemed to be just what we were looking for, but unfortunately wasn't open on Saturdays, the day that we had set aside for our excursion out of the city. I figured it was worth a quick email inquiry...and it most definitely was! I received a reply from Dominique, an American who had married into the Minardi family, and she was more than just accommodating, she was enthusiastic! </div>
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On our last full day in Italy, our big group, littles included, headed for the Alban Hills southeast of Rome. Our destination was the small town of Frascati, one of the Castelli Romani, the historic refuge and playground of well to-do Romans for centuries. And now ours for a day!<br />
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We met Dominique in the center of Frascati, she gave us an informative but brief tour of the charming town, and then we went to her husband's family home, where they have been making wine and olive oil for generations. We strolled along the vines and trees, while Dominique translated for her father-in-law as he explained to us how the farm had historically operated (although they have modernized production to allow for bottling and shipping - trust me, that's a very good thing!).<br />
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The day was brisk, but gorgeously sunny, and we spent most of our time outdoors - sipping the delicious wine, nibbling on focaccia and cookies, chatting in a mixture of English, Spanish, and Italian, while the kids ran around and made friends with the family dog. Dominique's husband and young daughter joined us, and along with her sweet father-in-law, it felt like we were part of the family ourselves.<br />
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All too soon, it was time to depart the farm to have a late lunch and then head back to our villa. Luckily, we have several bottled souvenirs to remind us of our visit!<br />
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Frascati is known for and almost exclusively produces white wines, which are sold in many Roman trattorias, but the red we sampled (mischievously named Vetus meaning "outlaw") was equally tasty.</div>
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Wine and cookies make for a happy lady!</div>
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If you're going to be in Rome and you want to get off the beaten path or just need a break from the frenetic pace of sightseeing in the city, I highly suggest spending a day in Frascati at the Old Minardi Farmhouse. This is the perfect vacation within a vacation and would be a great option for anyone, but especially for a group that needs "kid-friendly" but doesn't necessarily want a kid-specific activity. </div>
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The Old Minardi Farmhouse can be contacted via <a href="http://www.theoldminardifarmhouse.com/">website</a>. </div>
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The cost of the tour (including a walking tour of Frascati, transportation from the center of Frascati to the Farmhouse and back, wine and olive oil tasting, snacks, lunch at a local restaurant, and feeling momentarily Italian) is 55 euros for adults, 10 euros for children under 12. </div>
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Frascati can be easily, quickly, and inexpensively reached by train from central Rome. We opted for a privately hired van, which worked best for our group. </div>
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And last, but not least, leave room in your suitcase, because you will want to purchase some wine and olive oil to take home!</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-25000353269670512432014-01-02T15:45:00.000+01:002014-01-02T15:46:08.478+01:00Hola 2014<div style="text-align: center;">
And adios 2013. I won't say good riddance, but honestly, I'm not sad to see you go.<br />
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The past year is probably best summed up with these famous words...It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...</div>
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Truly a year with the highest of highs and lowest of lows. I lived and loved another year of Spain, falling more deeply for its charms, enjoying its lifestyle more than ever before. We indulged in all things <i>la buena vida</i> - food, drink, travel, experiences, quality time with friends, lazy days of leisure. </div>
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But it was also a year of challenges and heartache. We lost two dear family members. Our car was totaled in an accident. Graham was not chosen for an opportunity that we had both pinned our hearts to. And that is just the worst of the bad. Like most people, for every happy snap on instagram or excited update on facebook, there was always more to the story, life behind the scenes. </div>
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So, this year, I'm hoping for a more even keel. It's our last year in Spain and I want to make it count, to focus on life here in El Puerto and to plan for trips throughout the country and Europe. I have no idea what my world will look like this time next year. But for now, I have my lovely life in Spain, a great husband (and two little dogs) to share it with, wonderful friends and family flung far and wide, and a long list of travel dreams. I am grateful and I am optimistic.<br />
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I spent New Year's Eve with Graham and several close friends. At midnight, I ate 12 grapes, chased them with cava and kisses. On New Year's Day, we had black-eyed peas and greens. I'm hedging my bets with both Spanish and American traditions for a happy 2014!<br />
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And I'm wishing you the same. Besitos and best wishes!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-2433790963946314792013-12-18T15:10:00.001+01:002014-02-03T17:19:20.109+01:00Two Day Roman Holiday<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Just returned from a fantastic trip to Vienna and Budapest a few days ago, so now I'm going to share some pictures from our Thanksgiving trip to Rome. Makes no sense, but it's been kind of a whirlwind here between travel and general holiday chaos (including a mad dash to get everything wrapped and shipped to the States before the postal service deadline), so it is what it is. </div>
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Our trip to Rome, like many great ideas, was born out of some boozy, wine-induced conversations with friends about renting a villa over the Thanksgiving holiday. We decided on Rome since some of us had never been, not been in a while, or really...why not go to Rome? There's history, culture, art, architecture, and if you're not into any of that, there's always the great food and wine. Somehow we managed to actually coordinate 4 families (8 adults and 5 littles) for a 4 day trip. It was a Friendsgiving/Thanksgiving/Thanksgivukkah miracle. </div>
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Graham fell into the never-been-to-Rome category, while I had been years before during my semester abroad. I can be a little fussy about revisiting locations, but for Rome, I was happy to make an exception. Our compromise was that he got to plan two days in the city seeing all the typical sights and I got one day to do something outside of the city, preferably dedicated to food and/or wine (more on that later).</div>
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Our two days in Rome were essentially a greatest hits tour. Rome has so much to see, but also so many things you can't miss, that it's impossible to do it all. But as far as the top "must see" places, we felt like we came close. We were up early every day (each family decided to do their own thing during the first couple days, then get together for dinner at the villa) and were able to see a lot of the city. Here are the places that made the 2-day list:<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Borghese Gallery</span><br />
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Our first stop was my suggestion. The Borghese Gallery is a relatively small, but impressive, collection of ancient Roman, Renaissance, and Baroque art housed inside the Villa Borghese.</div>
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I love this small museum (seriously, it's the perfect dose of art - in fact, tickets are only sold in 2 hour blocks) and it was a highlight of my first trip to Rome. It contains several absolutely stunning Bernini sculptures, which I consider to be some of the most beautiful in the world (sorry, Michelangelo). <a href="http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edafne.htm">Apollo and Daphne</a> is a heart-stopper for me and I'm not normally that moved by marble sculpture. It will impress even the most disinterested of viewers, I guarantee. </div>
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To top off the experience, the villa is surrounded by a park, which is the perfect sanctuary from the surrounding bustle of Rome. It's fun to imagine being a Roman and taking strolls with Cora and Chloe through such a pretty green space.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Colosseum </span></div>
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The Borghese Gallery was my top choice and this was Graham's. We opted for the tour that includes access to the underground and top levels. </div>
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The tour was completely worth it, as we were able to see the Colosseum from areas that other general entry tickets couldn't, which also meant getting away from the crowds, and had great views over the Palatine Hill and Forum. Not to mention, our tour guide was interesting and informative.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Roman Forum</span></div>
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We continued the ancient Rome theme with a stroll through the forum.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The Pantheon</span></div>
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In keeping with the theme, the 2000-year old Pantheon was our next stop. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Piazza Navona</span></div>
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This was our last stop of the first day before heading back to the villa. Vendors were just setting up for a Christmas market and it was interesting to see one of Rome's most iconic piazzas sharing its space with a carousel. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums</span></div>
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No trip to Rome is complete without these two stops. We had pre-purchased tickets to the Museums, so getting in to see the Sistine Chapel was relatively easy, but we were stunned by how many people were lined up to enter the basilica. Luckily, it moved quickly (I had started to get a little flustered that we were going to have to give up) and we were inside the massive interior of St. Peter's.</div>
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There's really no way to describe how cavernous, yet perfectly proportioned and balanced, this space is. You are completely dwarfed; it is truly awe-inspiring (and this is coming from a decidedly non-Catholic).</div>
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Graham with Michelangelo's Pieta. It is gorgeous, but I always think it's an interesting experience when you see a piece of famous art in person. When you see its image in pictures, you aren't aware of all the security measures, like bullet-proof glass and railings, or the fact that there is constantly a giant crowd of people jostling to get a look. The Mona Lisa is another perfect example of this.</div>
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Who doesn't love a man in a (funky) uniform?</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Trevi Fountain</span></div>
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We had to ensure our next trip to Rome, of course. It worked for me last time, although it took the coin 11 years...</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Piazza di Spagna</span></div>
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A quick pass by the Spanish Steps as the sun was setting was the end to our 2nd day.</div>
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So, there you have it. Our two day Rome itinerary. It's pretty standard and straightforward, but that didn't take away from the experience at all. These places are visited over and over (and the same ubiquitous images captured in photographs) with good reason. From ancient Rome to the Renaissance and beyond, this city contains some of the world's most iconic sights. </div>
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Sometimes you have to embrace being a tourist. I loved every second of it!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-52141107445459018082013-12-02T20:44:00.001+01:002013-12-02T20:44:12.167+01:00Post-Thanksgiving Post <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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*<i>I've realized that as much as I love sharing my travels and experiences through this blog, real life will always trump writing and posting, as long those things remain one hobby amongst many priorities, interests, and loves. Whether times are good or bad, and I've had large shares of both recently, it's more important for me to be present in the current moment, rather than sacrificing precious time to write about (and review, edit, and tweak) my past experiences. So, there you go, my somewhat vague justification for disappearing from the internet at random. I'll try my best to catch up and you can usually check in with</i><i> me on <a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg">Instagram (meghannbg)</a>.</i>*<i></i><br />
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A couple things in the (very!) good times category: <br />
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We hosted a Friendsgiving potluck at our casa for 25 amigos. There weren't any elaborate tablescapes and barely enough chairs, but there was plenty of food (everything from gazpacho to cole slaw to pumpkin pie to jello with bananas), a fully stocked bar, and excellent company. Combining the best of both worlds, we deep-fried a fresh turkey from the carnicería.<br />
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Friendsgiving was followed by a trip to Rome for the Thanksgiving holiday. We rented a villa just outside the city with a group of friends and their peques. Instead of turkey, we had gnocchi and in general, a fabulous holiday getaway, filled with equal parts sightseeing and indulging. <br />
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One small snag (well, along with a stomach flu that took out half our group for a day, yuck) was that there was no wifi at the villa, so here are just a few phone snaps that I was unable to share in real time.<br />
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I'd say that if your biggest problem during the holiday is a lack of internet at your Roman villa, you have much to be thankful for, and I certainly am grateful for so much, despite some very difficult times this year. It's a wonderful thing when friends can get together wherever they are to celebrate a holiday and feel like family.<br />
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I'll have more Rome pics to share (and more Baltic roadtrip recaps) soon!</div>
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Hope you all had wonderful Friendsgivings, Thanksgivings, and Thanksgivukkahs!<br />
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-42710899489865638162013-10-26T11:17:00.001+02:002013-10-26T11:17:58.364+02:00Roadtrip Review: Plitvice Lakes<div style="text-align: center;">
Remember in my <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/10/roadtrip-review-ferrara-rovinj.html">first roadtrip recap</a> that I said I wouldn't be titling any posts "Don't Miss This Or You Will Regret It Forever"? Well, I won't be. But if I was going to, this would be it. Take note. </div>
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Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitvicka Jezera) might not be a place you know by name, but I guarantee that you've seen pictures of it before. If you haven't, it may be because you haven't encountered a travel magazine, top things to see before you die article, or are brand new to the internet. </div>
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The stunning (and ubiquitous) images of this destination capture the imagination of almost anyone that sees them and lands it on many travelers' lists, including mine. But photographs, even those that are far superior to the many that I snapped, don't do this place justice. It is otherworldly.<br />
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And because of its location, farther north and inland than the popular islands and cruise ports, not everyone that travels to Croatia will go to Plitvice Lakes. But they should.<br />
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Now, that's not to say that it's a hidden gem. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has many visitors and can become especially crowded during the peak summer season. Even though we were traveling in September, we arrived early, so that we could spend hours exploring the park.<br />
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Plitvice is absolutely stunning - dominated by the turquoise blue of its lakes and the emerald green of the forest. There are more waterfalls than you can count, not to mention cliffs, caves, streams, rivers, and coves. What makes the park unique is the mineral deposits in the water that carve through the rock and collect on algae and plants, creating a mesmerizing series of cascades and an ever-changing landscape.<br />
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Beyond the beauty of this place, I was overwhelmed with that feeling of finally being somewhere that I've wanted to visit for years. Gratification, being grateful, a sense of accomplishment, the satisfaction of doing something that I told a younger me that I would... Simply put, this day was definitely one of the highlights of my trip.<br />
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If Plitvice Lakes is now on your list (or has been for a while) here are a few tips to make the most or your experience:</div>
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<b>Stay in the area overnight.</b> </div>
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That way you can get up early the next day and beat the crowds (this is especially important if you are traveling in the summer). The narrow walkways become backed up, pictures become harder to take, and the park is truly at its most magical when the only noise is the rush of the waterfalls. </div>
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Plitvice Lakes National Park is in a somewhat remote area of Croatia, but there are plenty of guest houses and several good restaurants nearby. We loved staying in a traditional home, had a delicious dinner the night before, got a good night's sleep, and started the long day with breakfast, thanks to the kind owner. </div>
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<b>Pick your route. </b></div>
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There are multiple trails that range from a couple hours to all day hikes. We opted for the trail that combined both walking and a boat across one of the larger lakes to get to the top of the series of lakes, but then took the bus back down. It was estimated to take 4-6 hours and with taking pictures and a stop for a beer at the top, it was just about 5 hours for us. We knew that we wanted to see the majority of the park (and more than the standard 2-3 hour route) but were also aware that walking the entire way might be more than we could handle.</div>
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So, know your tolerance for walking, consult the map at the entrance, and go from there. The trails are well-maintained and marked, so I encourage you to push for one of the longer routes, if you're up for it. You'll see more and it will separate you from the general crowd.</div>
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<b>Pack food.</b></div>
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We picked up some waters and snacks at a local grocery store before entering the park (there is also a small convenience store at the entrance). 5 hours of walking makes for a long day and even though there are restaurants at several locations throughout the park, it's good to have something to grab on the go, especially if you're not a burger-and-fries fan or don't want to wait in a crazy long line. This is definitely a simple tip, but we've learned from past hangry experiences.</div>
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My post-5 hour walk lunch of a cheese and ajvar (a type of local pepper spread) sandwich, since my flexitarianism isn't flexible enough to handle a burger. </div>
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<b>Gear up, but not too much.</b></div>
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We woke up to a forecast calling for rain all day. Because we hadn't packed a bunch of rain gear, we actually considered just heading to Dubrovnik and coming back to Plitvice at the other end of our roadtrip. Luckily, the rain held off, but we still found we needed layers to start the day and it had warmed up considerably by the afternoon. So, bring a small backpack, wear layers and athletic shoes, and of course, make sure to have your best camera. But you absolutely do not need to prepare as if this is an expedition to Everest, so don't waste precious space in your discount airline-approved luggage.</div>
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Have you been to Plitvice Lakes National Park? Or another destination that exceeded your expectations after being on your must-see list for a while?</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-53067463588872002312013-10-21T17:46:00.001+02:002013-10-21T17:46:45.110+02:00Roadtrip Review: Pula, Croatia<div style="text-align: center;">
On the road again!</div>
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After overnights in <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/10/roadtrip-review-ferrara-rovinj.html">Ferrara and Rovinj</a>, we were headed to Plitvice Lakes but knew that we had time to make a stop in Pula to check out the Roman ruins.</div>
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I know that sometimes after people have spent a lot of time traveling in Europe, they can tire of seeing cathedrals, or castles, or ruins, or what Graham and I generally lump together into a category that we affectionately refer to as "old shit". Admittedly, it's everywhere - from small villages to grand cities, almost every town boasts its own visible (and visitable) connection to the ancient past. And sure, it can start to run together. Which town was that Moorish fortress in? Which pueblo blanco has the church at the top of the hill? (Answer: Almost all of them.)</div>
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But to be honest, I still love it. Maybe it's the American in me, but I'm still fascinated by the antiquities that are found around every corner. And Roman ruins are no exception.</div>
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We had previously visited the <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2012/06/ruins-romans-and-rock.html">Roman ruins north of Sevilla, in Mérida</a>, and it seemed like a great opportunity to see more, so much farther east, in Croatia.</div>
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So, we stopped in Pula, a Croatian seaside town in Istria that has Roman ruins strewn throughout, and woven within, its streets.</div>
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The amphitheater was definitely impressive - so much so, that it fooled some instagram followers into thinking that we were in Rome!</div>
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It's incredible to see remnants of an empire that stretched across a large part of this continent two millennia ago. And it made for the perfect lunch stop, which is always essential during a roadtrip. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-54959786516888251372013-10-07T17:57:00.000+02:002013-10-26T11:15:19.368+02:00Roadtrip Review: Ferrara & Rovinj<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The blog took a week (mas o menos) hiatus because I had friends in town from the States and spent my time with them instead of the computer - taking day trips, exploring pueblos blancos, seeing the sites, catching up during some late nights, and of course, wining and dining them with typical Spanish specialties. So, it was very quiet on the internet, but quite busy in real life. Which, if I have to choose between the two, is what I prefer, hands down.</div>
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Also, I've been struggling (mostly due to the epic number of photos that I took) to decide on the best way to share our end-of-summer, 12 day, big Balkan roadtrip, but after some thought, I'm just going to go through our destinations chronologically. I know, so boring, no Top 10s or 5 Musts or Don't Miss This Or You Will Regret It Forevers (actually, I do have one of those, but I'm sure the title will be something much more literal than that). </div>
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Instead, I simply want to focus on the pretty pictures and share some of our favorite parts of the trip, sticking with the journaling style that I like. When that's all finished, I think I'll do a wrap-up post with more details, tips, and specific information for those who are interested in planning a similar vacation. What do you think? </div>
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Great, here we go. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Handwriting - Dakota';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 32px;">Ferrara, Italy</span></span></div>
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We flew into Bologna in the evening, picked up our rental car, and had just enough time to get to Ferrara for a late dinner. While it was bustling and charming on a Friday night, it wasn't until the next morning that we really got a chance to see the city.</div>
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Saturday morning was sunny, and a bit sleepy, in the medieval city center as people slowly emerged to run errands, stop at news stands, or chat with friends. No matter what the activity, almost everyone was getting around on bikes. </div>
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Some were even kitted out with leather saddle bags and real wicker baskets...so much fancier than our shabby beach cruisers. What else would you expect from the stylish Italians?</div>
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No matter what they looked like though, bikes were parked everywhere - crowding side streets or propped outside of the cathedral.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Handwriting - Dakota';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 32px;">Rovinj, Croatia</span></span></div>
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Our second day took us from Ferrara to Rovinj, driving around the extended curve that the Adriatic Sea forms at the top of the boot and south into Croatia (with a quick pass through the strip of Slovenia that touches the coast). </div>
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If Ferrara is a city of bikes, then Rovinj is a city of boats. Our first official stop in Croatia, Rovinj is in Istria, on the northern coast of the country, and it remains very much a port village.</div>
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We arrived late in the afternoon, and immediately set off for the old part of the city, which is located on a small peninsula, surrounded by the Adriatic. We strolled around the port, stopping for a beverage or two, taking in the buildings as they reflected the fading golden light, then wound our way around the waterside to watch the fantastic sunset. </div>
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Just a little more than 24 hours into our roadtrip and we had already seen the sun set on Italy and Croatia! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-44016912014500808932013-09-23T19:19:00.001+02:002013-09-23T19:19:09.776+02:00I'm back and August recap!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you follow <a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg">my instagram</a>, then you're probably aware that we recently returned from a 12 day driving vacation - mostly Croatia and Slovenia, with a little Bosnia and Montenegro thrown in, and even some Italy and Austria for good measure. It was amazing, I took a couple thousand pictures (I could have exaggerated and said something like "a zillion" but the real number is ridiculous enough), and will be sharing some posts about the whole trip soon. </div>
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Before moving on though, I really wanted to talk about the end of my summer. August was just what I needed after an incredibly rough time (see: my June and July) and made it clear to me that after 2 years, El Puerto de Santa María is my home. It's the familiar place that I look forward to being after a long or stressful trip, I like the routine and the pace of daily life here, and it has become full of friends and experiences. Of course, it won't last forever, such is Navy life. But for now, I'm enjoying living la buena vida.</div>
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So this is just a happy little recap of my August, some events and good times that really bolstered my battered spirits. Sounds dramatic, but seriously, if I could never have so many negative things happen in such a short time ever again, that would be wonderful. Gracias.</div>
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Each one of these events could have had its own post, but at the time, I was just happily soaking everything in and loving living in the moment, which was so refreshing. </div>
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Anyway, let's get to the pictures!</div>
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This was our third year attending the <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2012/06/off-to-races.html">beach races in Sanlúcar</a> and it's one of our favorite events, so we made a point of going 2 nights, once during each weekend. Both times, we went to the finish line tent.</div>
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Horses, sunsets, a little betting (but no winning), drinks, food, and friends. What's not to love? Well, except for the not winning. That would have been a nice bonus. </div>
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Since we had recently traveled to the States twice and to <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/bonjour-bordeaux.html">Bordeaux</a>, we didn't travel over Labor Day weekend (Graham gets American holidays, even though the base is Spanish). But we did try our best to get out and see some different sites in our area.</div>
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We finally went to Bolonia, which is only about an hour drive away. We spent a (very windy) day checking out the Roman ruins, having lunch at a <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/chiringuitos-beach-bars.html">chiringuito</a>, and being mesmerized by the crazy blue water. </div>
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I've been wanting to take a paella class pretty much since the day I moved to España and in August I finally made it happen.</div>
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The class was offered through the base at a local restaurant, Diverso, in Rota. We learned to make 4 different types of paella and then, the best part, we tried each paired with wine or sherry.</div>
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I love that the crunchy part of paella that comes from the bottom of the pan has a specific name - "socarrat". </div>
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Arroz negro is quickly becoming my favorite paella. It doesn't look impressive (and certainly doesn't photograph well) but don't be deceived - the flavor is complex and delicious. </div>
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Friends invited us to a concert at the bull ring and although we weren't very familiar with Miguel Poveda, it turned out to be a great night. Since I'm not into bullfights, it was also a great way to go to an event at the El Puerto ring. And a concert at a bull ring...who can so no? So very Spanish.</div>
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Since I didn't really do this post in chronological order anyway, I saved my favorite day of August for last.</div>
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My birthday is in July and this year it fell in the midst of an incredibly terrible time. In fact, we were leaving the next morning to return to the States, for reasons that were far less than ideal. Graham had planned a party weeks in advance and it was quickly cancelled. </div>
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On August 9th, he threw the party he had planned for the month before. And it was perfect. We had friends over for cocktails and a paella dinner party in our garden.</div>
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Of course, there was cava and cheese, lots of cheese.</div>
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It was wonderful to have a patio full of friends (and small dogs) and to celebrate well into the night under twinkle lights.</div>
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Seriously, this was one of my favorite birthdays ever. It was so wonderful - I can't thank Graham and everyone else who were a part of it enough. I really might change my birthday, since August seems to suit me. It was a great month. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-43172836062486172942013-08-30T11:03:00.001+02:002013-08-30T11:03:31.459+02:00Labor Day long weekend!<div style="text-align: center;">
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Just wanted to wish everyone a happy weekend! For my fellow Americanos, it's a holiday, and Graham is lucky enough to have 4 days off (a "96" in Navy-speak). Since we have a vacation to Croatia and Slovenia coming up soon, we won't be traveling over the weekend, but we do plan to make the most of his time out of the office (including a day trip to see beachside Roman ruins). Some people might call this a "staycation" but really it's just an effort to not let 4 days pass by in a complete blur of general laziness.<br />
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I'm sure we'll still find plenty of time to relax. And there will definitely be at least one trip to the <a href="http://holamatrimony.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/chiringuitos-beach-bars.html">chiringuito</a>.</div>
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Feel free to follow along on my instagram account <a href="http://instagram.com/meghannbg">@meghannbg</a>!</div>
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What are your plans? Are you traveling, planning a busy weekend close to home, or just doing a whole lot of nothing? Whatever you have going on, ten un buen fin de semana!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-32596798892848584642013-08-28T15:15:00.000+02:002013-08-28T15:15:13.286+02:00Chiringuitos (beach bars)<br />
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I think it goes without saying that I love the playa. And I love the month of August - in Spain it's the height of summer, when many people are enjoying weeks of vacation time, and El Puerto de Santa María is bustling. It's great to see the city full of people going out, enjoying themselves, and (most importantly for local businesses) spending money. But to be honest, I'm not the biggest fan of the beach in August. </div>
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When the temperatures are reaching into the 100s (or 40s) inland, it seems like every Sevillano heads south to El Puerto and straight to the beaches. Maybe it's my Americana need for personal space, but I just can't handle the masses of people, packed umbrella-to-umbrella. If it's high tide on a weekend in August, buena suerte finding a piece of beach to call your own. The only way to get some sand to yourself is to show up early (10 o'clock might as well be the break of dawn for vacationing españoles), claim as much playa as possible, and leave before you end up sharing a towel with your new beach neighbors, sometime early in the afternoon. </div>
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I prefer when the playa looks like this:</div>
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The August crowds, not to mention the lack of parking in the surrounding neighborhoods, have me longing for September, when the beaches will be relatively peaceful again. But there is one thing about the summer season that I will miss - the chiringuitos.</div>
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Chiringuitos are temporary beach bars, usually set up right on the sand, that are only around for the summer. They pop up all along the coast, especially at the popular beach accesses. A chiringuito is the perfect place to cool off in the shade with a cold caña (small draft beer), tinto de verano, or the trendy summer favorite - a mojito. Most also offer food - normally fresh pescaito frito (fried seafood), grilled fish, and typical tapas, which make them ideal for a beachside lunch or dinner. At lunchtime, they fill up with people, most right off the playa, sandy, salty, wearing bathing suits and cover-ups, while dinner normally requires a post-siesta clean-up. </div>
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Some are simple, no frills establishments, while others have the feel of a resort, with flowing curtains, Moroccan lanterns, loungers, and potted palm trees. </div>
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The chiringuito that we frequent the most in Las Redes, La Concha, is the simple variety and that's absolutely fine by me. </div>
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It's convenient, close, and makes just as good of a tinto de verano as any of the others. Sharing the crowded beach is a little easier when a cold afternoon beverage or tasty sunset meal are just a quick walk across the sand away. So while I won't be sad when all the August visitors leave, I will most definitely miss the chiringuitos when they go with them. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18187772534179450118noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3861254343158415743.post-52018908443849584572013-08-20T19:34:00.000+02:002013-08-21T15:44:32.054+02:00Bonjour, Bordeaux!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Hola, amigos! How has your summer been? Mine has been steadily, happily improving. It's amazing what a positive effect Spanish sunshine can have. And I've been beyond thrilled to simply be at home, relaxing back into daily life in my little corner of España. That doesn't mean I've forgotten about our last vacation though, just the opposite actually - Bordeaux has been difficult to get off my mind!</div>
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We had just 3 days and spent most of that time eating, sipping, strolling, and falling in love with the city. This was not our typical, fast-paced touring trip - hardly any time was spent at historic sites, we walked through just one church, and didn't set foot in a single museum. I do enjoy all of those activities, but this getaway truly felt like a vacation devoted to my favorites things, of which Bordeaux has plenty to offer. And for me, that was the perfect way to spend our time.</div>
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So, with that in mind, here is a list of what I consider musts for Bordeaux, if you want a similarly lazy, but delightful trip:</div>
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1. Walk along Les Quais, the wide pedestrian path that follows the Garonne River, past the Place de la Bourse. Continue your walk away from the waterfront, through the smaller streets and neighborhoods, dotted with cafes. Pick out your (imaginary for us, unfortunately) new apartment.<br />
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Ours is the one with the umbrella...I wish.</div>
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Then do the same at night. </div>
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This time, stop to play in the miroir d'eau (water mirror).</div>
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And don't forget dinner at a lovely café.</div>
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We celebrated our 2nd anniversary one night. Our waiter wished our special day a happy birthday, which when you think about it, is just about right. </div>
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2. Go on a wine tour (or 2!) in one of the famous growing regions outside of the city. We booked a half-day, small group trip to the Margaux region. The van picked us up in town and then took us to two chateaux. We learned some of the basics of Bordeaux and then were able to taste (best part!).<br />
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Our second tour, booked with <a href="http://www.bordovino.com/">Bordovino</a>, was definitely our favorite though. A full day of biking through St. Emilion, a beautiful medieval town, and it's surrounding wine region. In between rides we stopped for a leisurely lunch on the grounds of a small chateau, a quick tour of the town, wine tasting at a merchant's shop, then a tour and tasting at a large chateau.<br />
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I had such high hopes for adorable biking-in-the-countryside-and-drinking-wine photos, but to be honest it was about 90 degrees the day of our tour and we were a hot (but happy!) mess.</div>
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Though we're avid wine drinkers and have done wine tours in other places, we knew next-to-nothing about the complexities of French wine. Both tours made it very accessible and fun, which is just how wine should be. And there's a tour to suit everyone - private, group, half day, full day, multiple days (lucky you!), large chateaux or small organic ones, by van, car, walking, biking, even horseback riding.</div>
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3. Enjoy wine by the glass at one of Bordeaux's many wine bars. Yes, I'm suggesting more vino drinking, but you're in the world capital of wine! After a day of learning all about Bordeaux, you'll want to try more and there's no easier or cheaper way to do it than at a wine bar. Not to mention, you can only take so many bottles home with you (sadly only 1 for us, due to the super-strict luggage rules on our favorite discount airline). So, now's the time to indulge and try out something new (ever had a Sauternes?) or get a glass of something that would be way too pricey by the bottle.<br />
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We spent one post-dinner evening at <a href="http://www.aux4coinsduvin.com/">Aux Quatre Coins du Vin</a>, which makes sampling wines even easier - their system allows you to put euros on a prepaid card, which you use to pay for sips, half glasses, or full glasses of wine from the automated wine-pouring machines. Choose from a selection of Bordeaux, French, and international wines that cost anywhere from a euro for a taste up to about 8 for an entire glass (if you have any questions, the staff is happy to help). Then head back to your table or comfy couch and enjoy!<br />
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4. Make sure to be in Bordeaux on a Sunday so you can go to the Marche des Quais, the open air market on the riverfront. Browse the fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood, meat, and cheese that are the staples of any good market. But what really makes this market great (especially for a tourist staying in a hotel) is that there are just as many prepared foods to purchase, either to eat there or to take for a picnic. </div>
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The most popular are freshly shucked oysters, perfectly paired with a cold bottle of rosé, which can conveniently be bought at another stand, opened and ready to drink! This makes for a fantastic Sunday brunch - eating fresh seafood and drinking crisp wine, overlooking the Garonne, surrounded by locals doing the same.<br />
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We also picked up some cheese, bread, fresh raspberries and strawberries, and had a small picnic in the grass near the market. We lounged in the shade for hours, alternating between snacking, people watching, and napping. </div>
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This might have been the most amazing lazy Sunday on record.<br />
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I'm sure that Bordeaux has much, much more to offer, and it really is an impressive city. But I was absolutely content with the wine, food, and leisure.<br />
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Meghann Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01343117165202565047noreply@blogger.com2