Cheeeeeese! Feria del Queso in Trujillo

I broke one of my own rules and planned a vacation during the Rota feria. But! I have two very good excuses. One, the feria dates have been thrown off this year by the lateness of Easter - Sevilla's Feria de Abril was at the beginning of May and Rota's was before Sevilla's, not to mention El Puerto's is sadly over the American Memorial Day long weekend, and I'll be traveling for most of that, as well. Both trips were planned well before the feria dates were released. 

Two, and possibly a far better reason, I missed the traditional Rota Feria de la Primavera for a feria dedicated to one of my very deepest loves - cheese! And this trip was a long time in the making. 

Flashback to two very jetlagged newlyweds, their small dog, multiple bags and a rental car full of giddy and groggy optimism as they drove from Madrid to El Puerto de Santa María nearly three years ago... 

On our very first day of living together in Spain, I sat shotgun as Graham navigated the long drive from the capital to our new town in the south. To pass the time, I followed along in our recently purchased Eyewitness Travel Spain guidebook. As we passed a medieval hilltop city, I read aloud about Trujillo - birthplace to conquistadors, site of a moorish fortress, and host to an annual cheese fair. Upon reading that last bit, I immediately proclaimed that we would one day return to Trujillo. 

And we did! Painfully aware that this year would probably be our last opportunity to go, we rallied some friends (some of the same people we went to Rome with over Thanksgiving) and rented a house in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a pueblo just outside of Trujillo, for the long weekend of the Feria Nacional del Queso, the National Cheese Fair. 

The Perfect Roman Respite: Frascati

You might have assumed that this would be a holiday recap post, since Monday was the final day of the epically long Spanish holiday season, but no! Because Graham and I aren't even finished celebrating Christmas. Although it may seem like we're trying to out-Spanish the Spanish by waiting to open gifts until after Three Kings Day, really it's because it's taken until now for all of our packages to be delivered (with one still unaccounted for, ahh, the mysteries of the military postal system). So, our Christmas will be happening Friday night. Take that, tradition!

In the meantime, let's get back to Rome!
  

Our first two days in Rome were spent taking in the city to the fullest, since it was Graham's first time there. In exchange for being an enthusiastic second-time tourist, I wanted a day to do something outside of the city and hoped it would involve sipping wine in the countryside. The rest of our group was interested too, so the day also needed to be kid-friendly, which is not something I normally have to take into account, but it turned out there was a perfect solution.

After a bit of internetting, I came across the wine tour at the Old Minardi Farmhouse, which seemed to be just what we were looking for, but unfortunately wasn't open on Saturdays, the day that we had set aside for our excursion out of the city. I figured it was worth a quick email inquiry...and it most definitely was! I received a reply from Dominique, an American who had married into the Minardi family, and she was more than just accommodating, she was enthusiastic! 

On our last full day in Italy, our big group, littles included, headed for the Alban Hills southeast of Rome. Our destination was the small town of Frascati, one of the Castelli Romani, the historic refuge and playground of well to-do Romans for centuries. And now ours for a day!

Post-Thanksgiving Post

*I've realized that as much as I love sharing my travels and experiences through this blog, real life will always trump writing and posting, as long those things remain one hobby amongst many priorities, interests, and loves. Whether times are good or bad, and I've had large shares of both recently, it's more important for me to be present in the current moment, rather than sacrificing precious time to write about (and review, edit, and tweak) my past experiences. So, there you go, my somewhat vague justification for disappearing from the internet at random. I'll try my best to catch up and you can usually check in with me on Instagram (meghannbg).*

A couple things in the (very!) good times category:

We hosted a Friendsgiving potluck at our casa for 25 amigos. There weren't any elaborate tablescapes and barely enough chairs, but there was plenty of food (everything from gazpacho to cole slaw to pumpkin pie to jello with bananas), a fully stocked bar, and excellent company. Combining the best of both worlds, we deep-fried a fresh turkey from the carnicería.

Friendsgiving was followed by a trip to Rome for the Thanksgiving holiday. We rented a villa just outside the city with a group of friends and their peques. Instead of turkey, we had gnocchi and in general, a fabulous holiday getaway, filled with equal parts sightseeing and indulging.

One small snag (well, along with a stomach flu that took out half our group for a day, yuck) was that there was no wifi at the villa, so here are just a few phone snaps that I was unable to share in real time.

I'd say that if your biggest problem during the holiday is a lack of internet at your Roman villa, you have much to be thankful for, and I certainly am grateful for so much, despite some very difficult times this year. It's a wonderful thing when friends can get together wherever they are to celebrate a holiday and feel like family.

I'll have more Rome pics to share (and more Baltic roadtrip recaps) soon!

Hope you all had wonderful Friendsgivings, Thanksgivings, and Thanksgivukkahs!

Roadtrip Review: Plitvice Lakes

Remember in my first roadtrip recap that I said I wouldn't be titling any posts "Don't Miss This Or You Will Regret It Forever"? Well, I won't be. But if I was going to, this would be it. Take note. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitvicka Jezera) might not be a place you know by name, but I guarantee that you've seen pictures of it before. If you haven't, it may be because you haven't encountered a travel magazine, top things to see before you die article, or are brand new to the internet. 

The stunning (and ubiquitous) images of this destination capture the imagination of almost anyone that sees them and lands it on many travelers' lists, including mine. But photographs, even those that are far superior to the many that I snapped, don't do this place justice. It is otherworldly.

And because of its location, farther north and inland than the popular islands and cruise ports, not everyone that travels to Croatia will go to Plitvice Lakes. But they should.

Roadtrip Review: Pula, Croatia

On the road again!

After overnights in Ferrara and Rovinj, we were headed to Plitvice Lakes but knew that we had time to make a stop in Pula to check out the Roman ruins.

I know that sometimes after people have spent a lot of time traveling in Europe, they can tire of seeing cathedrals, or castles, or ruins, or what Graham and I generally lump together into a category that we affectionately refer to as "old shit". Admittedly, it's everywhere - from small villages to grand cities, almost every town boasts its own visible (and visitable) connection to the ancient past. And sure, it can start to run together. Which town was that Moorish fortress in? Which pueblo blanco has the church at the top of the hill? (Answer: Almost all of them.)

But to be honest, I still love it. Maybe it's the American in me, but I'm still fascinated by the antiquities that are found around every corner. And Roman ruins are no exception.

We had previously visited the Roman ruins north of Sevilla, in Mérida, and it seemed like a great opportunity to see more, so much farther east, in Croatia.

So, we stopped in Pula, a Croatian seaside town in Istria that has Roman ruins strewn throughout, and woven within, its streets.

Roadtrip Review: Ferrara & Rovinj

The blog took a week (mas o menos) hiatus because I had friends in town from the States and spent my time with them instead of the computer - taking day trips, exploring pueblos blancos, seeing the sites, catching up during some late nights, and of course, wining and dining them with typical Spanish specialties. So, it was very quiet on the internet, but quite busy in real life. Which, if I have to choose between the two, is what I prefer, hands down.

Also, I've been struggling (mostly due to the epic number of photos that I took) to decide on the best way to share our end-of-summer, 12 day, big Balkan roadtrip, but after some thought, I'm just going to go through our destinations chronologically. I know, so boring, no Top 10s or 5 Musts or Don't Miss This Or You Will Regret It Forevers (actually, I do have one of those, but I'm sure the title will be something much more literal than that). 

Instead, I simply want to focus on the pretty pictures and share some of our favorite parts of the trip, sticking with the journaling style that I like. When that's all finished, I think I'll do a wrap-up post with more details, tips, and specific information for those who are interested in planning a similar vacation. What do you think? 

Great, here we go. 

Ferrara, Italy

We flew into Bologna in the evening, picked up our rental car, and had just enough time to get to Ferrara for a late dinner. While it was bustling and charming on a Friday night, it wasn't until the next morning that we really got a chance to see the city.

Bonjour, Bordeaux!

Hola, amigos! How has your summer been? Mine has been steadily, happily improving. It's amazing what a positive effect Spanish sunshine can have. And I've been beyond thrilled to simply be at home, relaxing back into daily life in my little corner of España. That doesn't mean I've forgotten about our last vacation though, just the opposite actually - Bordeaux has been difficult to get off my mind!

We had just 3 days and spent most of that time eating, sipping, strolling, and falling in love with the city. This was not our typical, fast-paced touring trip - hardly any time was spent at historic sites, we walked through just one church, and didn't set foot in a single museum. I do enjoy all of those activities, but this getaway truly felt like a vacation devoted to my favorites things, of which Bordeaux has plenty to offer. And for me, that was the perfect way to spend our time.

So, with that in mind, here is a list of what I consider musts for Bordeaux, if you want a similarly lazy, but delightful trip:

1. Walk along Les Quais, the wide pedestrian path that follows the Garonne River, past the Place de la Bourse. Continue your walk away from the waterfront, through the smaller streets and neighborhoods, dotted with cafes. Pick out your (imaginary for us, unfortunately) new apartment.

Ours is the one with the umbrella...I wish.

Then do the same at night.  

Outer Banks love

On Tuesday, we got back from Bordeaux, the capital of wine...and all things dedicated to the fabulously French good life.  We spent a few (very much-needed) days sipping, eating, relaxing, and belatedly celebrating our anniversary. After what has been a tough month, it was the perfect getaway and I can't wait to post some photos, but I wanted to talk about some other travel first.

Earlier this month, we made a more difficult trip back to the States, and while it wasn't a vacation, I still wanted to share parts of our time on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, because it's a place that means so much to Graham and me. He moved there as a child and grew up there, while I visited for the first time when I was 17 on a family vacation. I haven't missed going at least once a year since then and even lived there for 2 summers during college. 

It's a place that we both truly love and part of the connection between us. Soon after meeting Graham (over 9 years ago!) he invited me to visit him at his parents' home. If their house hadn't been on the Outer Banks, a place I was so familiar with, there was a good chance I would have said no. That tiny strip of barrier islands might be one of the reasons we're married today!

So in honor of such a special place, here's a little collection of phone photo love, just a few things that I miss about an East Coast summer and that make the Outer Banks great.

Crabs and corn on the cob, don't even get me started. Even better with good friends.

Dazed and confused

I'm back in España. After a short, but important, trip to the States, we finally got to our casa yesterday around 6 o'clock (in the evening or por la tarde, depending). Both trips there and back were long and involved a seemingly endless combination of planes, trains, automobiles, buses, metro, shuttles, taxis, and even a ferry.

Taken at the third (but not the last) airport of our trip, Reagan National in DC, via my Instagram.

To top it off, on the road from North Carolina to DC on Friday, (first things first, we're totally fine) we were in a car accident. The positives are that everyone involved is okay, it wasn't our fault, and that repairs to the Jeep will be covered by the other driver's insurance.

But it definitely added an extra element of anxiety and to sum it up, I'm pretty exhausted. By the time we walked in the door yesterday I was just so (deliriously) happy to see our pups and be in my own house. I think jet lag is made worse when there is more stress involved with the travel and this trip was a tough one.

Now, I'm trying my best to get out of this 6-hour time difference induced fog. Remedies include: drinking lots of water, getting out into the sun, and attempting to go to bed at a normal time (then failing miserably and watching stupid movies until 3 in the morning). 

Have any cures for jet lag?

Long weekend in Poland

My mom, sister, and niece just left to go back to the States this morning after spending 8 days with us. I haven't seen them since October (when I went back for my sister's wedding) and this was their first time visiting our place in España. So, even though I've been meaning to share these pictures from our Memorial Day weekend trip, I've been too busy catching up with them, showing them where we call home, and just generally enjoying having a casa full of family.

When planning for the long weekend away, I had only one requirement - to go somewhere new. As much as I love España (and Portugal...and France) I was ready to explore a different area. After a quick internet search for flights we decided on...Poland!

Hiking in Grazalema

Before the whirlwind that is feria gets started (¡mañana!) I just wanted to  share some pictures from our roadtrip weekend to area in and around the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema.

Our main reason for going was to do some hiking, now that the rain has stopped and before the crazy hot summer temperatures settle in. And we hiked! An 11 kilometer circular route, starting and ending in Grazalema, which offered gorgeous panoramic views from some of the highest peaks. And I'm not going to lie, at points it was pretty aggressive, especially for my the pups' short little legs. But we all made it and I rewarded myself with what else? Tintos de verano. 

Lunch in Lovely Zahara

On the way back to El Puerto from Guejar Sierra, we took a little detour to Zahara de la Sierra to have lunch with friends. I happily snapped photos almost the entire way, while Graham battled with passing slow moving tractors. Ahh, country life, it's the same everywhere.

Despite the agricultural traffic jam, the drive was lovely. Descending from the Sierra Nevada mountains into the olive groves that go on as far as the eye can see, passing pueblos blancos and rambling cortijos...

Olive trees for miles...

Guejar Sierra

Last weekend we had planned (our version of "to plan" is to talk about it and google some stuff, then wait until the last minute) to go to Granada for a few days of snow and tapas. Combine procrastination with a car in desperate need of new brakes that were still in transit across the ocean and it looked like our long weekend was a total loss. 

Until our amazing and generous friends (Ross and his wife, Pia, who also taught me how to make tortilla, there is no end to her awesomeness) lent us their second car. On top of that, their rental apartment outside of Granada was upgraded from 1 bedroom to 2, so they invited us to join them. Weekend saved!

On Saturday morning we packed up our their car and drove several hours to the countryside outside of Granada. The apartment was located in quaint Guejar Sierra, a small pueblo blanco perched in the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Sidenote: Guejar is pronounced "way-har" or some close approximation, like guapa is "wapa". 

Port Tasting in Porto

I had been hearing and reading great things about Porto recently, so when we were coming up with ideas for the long weekend, I suggested it. And by phrasing it this way "What about Porto? We could go port tasting!" I knew that Graham would be sold. 

He loves port, has for a while. I can remember buying him bottles of 20 year tawny for special occasions when we lived in Texas, way back when he was in flight school, when we were young younger and dating. During our first trip to Portugal, Graham did a little port sampling in Sintra and he bought a bottle in Lisbon. As for me...I have always preferred wine, simple, delicious, unfortified wine. But I've learned that the best way to gain an appreciation for something is to learn about it and try it at its source (worked for Guinness and whiskey in Dublin). 

Port tasting in Porto is ridiculously easy to do - simply cross the bridge in Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia and walk along the riverfront, with the old port boats anchored along the side. All of the cellars are lined up, each easily identified by large signs, and hours clearly posted out front. If you have any questions about tours or tastings, the staff at most cellars are very friendly and required to speak at least 2 languages, so English is no problem, but many speak 4 or 5, if you would prefer French, German, or Spanish. (Coming from southern España, where the concept of customer service is a little rough, we were impressed.)

Oh, Porto!

Last weekend, we traveled to Porto (sometimes called Oporto). Portugal's second largest city after Lisbon, Porto is situated in the north of the country. Even though we knew it was going to be a long trip, it sounded like the perfect driving vacation for the holiday weekend. So the whole family, Chloe and Cora included of course, loaded up in the Mini. And despite raining most of the time (including some really epic weather Saturday morning) it was a fantastic weekend!

If you like your European cities large, clean, modern, and sophisticated...Porto is not for you. But if you want a small city, an old port town, full of character, winding streets, and brightly tiled buildings that tumble down steeply towards a river that is lined with restaurants and port tasting cellars, where the noise is a mix of car horns and sea gulls...you will fall in love with Porto.

Geneva, Switzerland

from Meghann:

It took a little while to blog about our Veterans Day weekend trip to Geneva - maybe because we are procrastinators, maybe because it wasn't our favorite city ever. There I said it. And it's okay. We're not sad that we went, neither of us had ever been to Switzerland and now we have (and we have heard that other places in the country are fantastic.) We would never know which places are our favorites unless we traveled and experienced as many as possible. Just because it wasn't a Paris or a DC or a Marrakech, doesn't mean that we didn't have a good time.

Geneva is a city known for international business, luxury brands, and wealth. Yes, it is expensive. But it did have some Swiss charm - sidewalk cafes, buildings covered in shutters and flower boxes, fountains, old stone architecture.

DC love {Where We Stayed/Ate}

from Meghann:

Just got back home late last night from a long weekend in Geneva, Switzerland with my favorite veteran! Before I get to that trip though, I want to finish up with our time in DC by sharing some details of where we stayed and more most importantly, what/where we ate. You'll notice that this post is a mix of DSLR (big camera) pics and iPhone snaps. During the day, when I was playing tourist while Graham was in training, I used my Nikon, but I tried to not drive Graham crazy tone it down when we were out to eat or just didn't want to dedicate my focus to shooting pictures. (As much as I love taking photographs, sometimes it's better to just stop and smell the roses. Or the mac and cheese.) So, please forgive some of the less than perfect photos - I didn't even use any instagram magic.

First things first, I want to talk about food trucks. I know that I am way behind the times, especially in blog land, but cut me a little slack. It's not that I didn't know they existed (I keep up with food fashion as much as the next chica) it's just that I haven't had any access to them. When we left Norfolk over a year ago, I was starting to hear about them, but the only food truck in that area was for cupcakes and I already had "my" cupcake place in the neighborhood (Carolina Cupcakery, for any Ghentites). And if there are any food trucks in España, they certainly aren't here in our little corner of the country. 

So, imagine my excitement when Graham told me that there were a bunch of food trucks parked outside of the building where he was doing his professional training every day during lunch. I met him a couple times during his break and each time we walked by all the trucks, just to check out what was up for grabs.

There were so many options! And some trucks had super long lines. We went for whatever looked good and didn't require waiting for a half hour.

Really tasty sandwiches - pulled pork for Graham, roasted eggplant and red pepper for me.

A truck dedicated to mac and cheese?! I had the mushroom marsala mac. I can't stop thinking about it and want to try to re-create it.

And another pulled pork sandwich for Graham. You can take the boy out of North Carolina...

DC love

from Meghann:

Alternate titles:

Something about DC that's not political!

  Watch me piss off all the Parisians that don't read this blog.

Graham and I have both spent a lot of time in DC, have friends that live there, etc. But we haven't been "on vacation" in DC since either of us were little kids. Graham's professional training in the city was an opportunity to stay in downtown and treat the time like a vacation (well, except for the time that he was working). I decided that since I live in España now and am technically a tourist whenever I go elsewhere, there was no shame in my game in visiting some of my favorite monuments and museums (and some new additions) and taking pics with the big camera the whole time. Just what I would normally do in Europe, but here in the good ol' US of A. 

My first stop was the Hirshhorn Sculpture Garden. The garden was looking extra lovely in early fall. It also made me realize that I hadn't seen a real fall, with changing leaves and sunny but brisk days in 2 years. I'm definitely a summer girl, but autumn does have its charms.